Recipe image credit: Angie Mosier
LUCY'S SIGNATURE
SUMMER SEAFOOD GUMBO
SERVES 14 TO 16
Recipe text: Excerpted from the book GUMBO LOVE by Lucy Buffett. Copyright © 2017 by Lucy Buffett. Reprinted with permission of Grand Central Life & Style. All rights reserved. http://lucybuffett.
It takes courage to make a gumbo, and you’ve got to rustle
up plenty more qualities along the way to achieve a successful end result. But
like any character-building exercise, your experience and wisdom deepens with
every step, until you reach a profound sense of satisfaction by the end of the
process. A simmering pot of contentment is your reward, and the knowledge that
you made this nurturing goodness from the humblest of ingredients and your own
ability. It is literally and figuratively a pot full of flavor that can feed
your loved ones for days and that’s just brimming with all the courage,
mindfulness, and love you put into it.
It all starts with preparation—you must gather all the
ingredients and prep them: chop the vegetables, clean the seafood, and sauté
the meats and sausages. When done in an orderly fashion, this preparation
simplifies the steps to come. It eliminates the chaos and fear. With practice
and focus, you quickly learn you were more afraid of the fear itself than the
task at hand.
Next is the queen bee—the roux!
Making a roux simply requires a little
focus and paying attention, seasoned with faith—you have to shake off the doubt and believe in yourself
before diving headfirst into the perseverance
part, which keeps you doing what you have to do, stirring long after your arm
has gone numb from pain. Then there’s the listening,
where you tune in to your wisdom and experience to take the roux just to the
edge of burning before you toss in the vegetables. Next is the easy follow-directions part, where you do
what you’re told to do: you add the stock, along with the rest of the
ingredients and seasonings, and mix it all together. Then comes the hard part
for lots of us: you let it go. You
leave it alone, letting it simmer, with an occasional stir. You get out of the
way. You trust the age-old cooking process and let the magic happen.
OVER THE YEARS, this is the recipe that I’ve cooked the most
and that has remained a featured specialty at my restaurants. As far as the
seafood goes, I use shrimp and crab, but if it’s cool enough for oysters and
there are some sweet and pretty ones available, or it’s crawfish season, I will
toss those in, too. And though I usually use only sausage in my winter gumbo,
it’s no crime to add a little andouille to the pot as well.
INGREDIENTS
3 pounds medium wild-caught Gulf shrimp, heads on
2 pounds cooked blue crab claw meat, picked through for
shells, handled carefully to keep the meat in big chunks
4 large ripe tomatoes, or 1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes
with their juices
¾ cup vegetable oil or bacon grease
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 large onions, coarsely chopped
1 bunch celery, coarsely chopped, including leaves
2 green bell peppers, coarsely chopped
8 cups shrimp or seafood stock (recipe follows), heated
2 to 3 teaspoons sea salt, or to taste
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons dried thyme
4 bay leaves
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried basil
2 tablespoons LuLu’s Crazy Creola Seasoning (recipe
follows), or other Creole seasoning
¼ cup hot sauce
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
4 blue crab bodies, if available (optional)
2½ pounds fresh okra, chopped into ¼-inch pieces, or thawed
frozen cut okra
2 cups finely chopped green onions
½ cup finely chopped fresh parsley
½ cup fresh lemon juice
Cooked white rice, for serving
French bread and butter, for serving
METHOD
1. Peel and devein the shrimp. (If you’re making your own
stock, reserve the heads and shells to make the stock.) Refrigerate the shrimp
and crabmeat until ready to use.
2. If using fresh tomatoes, fill a medium saucepan with
water. Bring to a boil. Carefully drop the tomatoes into the boiling water and
cook for 1 minute. Remove with a slotted spoon and let them cool. The skins
will slip off easily. Remove the cores and coarsely chop the tomatoes over a
bowl to retain as much juice as possible. Set aside. (If using canned tomatoes,
chop each tomato into eighths and return them to the juice in the can.)
3. To make the roux, in a large stockpot (about 10 quarts),
heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, gradually
add the flour, whisking continuously, and cook, stirring and adjusting the heat
as necessary to keep it from burning, until the roux is a dark mahogany color, 25
to 35 minutes. Be careful: if the roux burns, you will have to start all over again!
4. Carefully add the onion to the roux and stir with a large
wooden spoon for 2 to 3 minutes. (The onion will sizzle and steam when it hits
the hot roux, so caution is advised. All seasoned gumbo cooks have roux battle
scars on one or both arms.)
5. Add the celery and cook, stirring continuously, for 2 to
3 minutes.
6. Add the bell pepper and cook, stirring continuously, for
2 to 3 minutes more. The mixture should resemble a pot of black beans in color
and texture.
7. Add the heated stock and the tomatoes with their juices.
Stir in the salt, black pepper, cayenne, thyme, bay leaves, oregano, basil,
Creole seasoning, hot sauce, and Worcestershire sauce. Stir well. Bring the
gumbo to a boil and cook for 5 minutes, then reduce the heat to maintain a slow
simmer. Add the crab bodies (if using) and simmer, uncovered, for about 1 hour.
8. Add the okra and bring the gumbo to a boil. Cook for 5
minutes. Reduce the heat to maintain a slow simmer and cook, uncovered, for 30
minutes, or until the okra has lost its bright green color and cooked down like
the other vegetables. If the gumbo gets too thick, add a little water. If it is
too thin, continue to simmer it, uncovered.
9. Gumbo is always better the day after it has been cooked,
although I’ve never had a complaint when I served it the day I made it. At this
point, you can cool the gumbo. Turn off the heat and let it sit for about 30
minutes. Then place the pot, uncovered, in an empty sink. Fill the sink with
cold water and ice around the stockpot (try not to get any in the stockpot
itself). Stir every 15 minutes to facilitate cooling. (The gumbo will spoil if
improperly cooled—see page xxx for tips on cooling the gumbo.) When completely
cool, refrigerate the gumbo in the stockpot, uncovered.
10. When ready to serve, slowly bring the gumbo to a simmer
over medium-low
heat. Thirty minutes before serving, add the green onion,
parsley, and lemon juice to the gumbo. Cover and cook for 15 minutes. Add the
shrimp and crabmeat, mix well, and cook for 2 minutes. Cover and turn off the
heat. Let it sit for at least 15 minutes more to cook the seafood. The gumbo
will stay hot for a long time. Remove and discard the bay leaves. Taste and
adjust the seasonings; serve over cooked white rice with French bread and
butter.
SHRIMP STOCK
If you are lucky enough to get shrimp with the heads on,
rejoice. Shrimp heads make the stock even richer and more flavorful. When
making stock, I fill an empty liter Coke bottle (label removed) with water and
freeze it ahead of time. When the stock has cooled down a bit, about 30 minutes
or so, I plunge the frozen bottle into the middle to help cool the stock from the
inside out. This is also how I cool down a pot of gumbo before refrigerating
it.
MAKES ABOUT 4 QUARTS
INGREDIENTS
Heads, tails, and shells from about 5 pounds peeled
wild-caught Gulf shrimp
6 quarts water
2 lemons, sliced into ¼-inch rounds
2 bay leaves
3 onions, coarsely chopped
6 celery stalks, coarsely chopped
1 bunch green onions, coarsely chopped
Handful of fresh parsley with stems, washed thoroughly
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 whole garlic clove
White wine
1. At least several hours before you plan to make the stock,
fill a clean, empty 1-liter soda bottle with water to about 2 inches from the
top, seal, and freeze it.
2. Run cold water over the shrimp shells to rinse. Place all
the ingredients in a medium stockpot. Bring to a boil over high heat.
3. Reduce the heat to medium, or until the stock is
simmering. Skim off the foam that rises to the top. Cook for a couple of hours,
skimming again about every 15 minutes.
4. Place the stockpot in an empty sink. Fill the sink with
water and ice around the stockpot. Let the stock cool completely, uncovered.
When the stock has cooled down a bit, about 30 minutes or so, put the frozen
soda bottle in the middle to cool the stock from the inside out. Strain the
stock, discarding the solids, transfer to storage containers, and refrigerate
or freeze immediately.
LULU’S CRAZY CREOLA
SEASONING
MAKES ½ CUP
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon sea salt
2 tablespoons granulated garlic or garlic powder
4 teaspoons granulated onion or onion powder
¼ cup paprika
1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons white pepper
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon dried oregano
Combine all the ingredients and store in an airtight
container.
